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I offer all my patterns for free and you are welcome to sell your items made from my patterns.

All I ask is that you could please send a few dollars my way, if you can spare it. It would be greatly appreciated since I do not plan on ever making anybody purchase the patterns, I know that not everyone (myself included) can afford to purchase patterns. I do dedicate a lot of my time to providing these free patterns and hunting down other awesome free ones. If you are able to help me raise some funds than please click on the "buy now" button(couldn't use a "donate" button since I'm not a charity organization) If you are able to help me out than I will not be able to thank you enough, every penny counts for me! There are sooo many times where I have a great idea for a new pattern but don't have the money to buy some skeins of yarns so every dollar really helps.

Thank you so much!!!

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Baby shampoo isnt just for babies!! Why I love baby shampoo..

Ohh baby shampoo, how I love you so. I'm glad I sparked your interest. Baby shampoo is the only shampoo I use, I love it. Let me explain why..

I don't wash my hair everyday (you're not really supposed to) and when you go 2-3 days without washing your hair it gets a little oily. You have that oily buildup so what do we as women do? Spray dry shampoo on it and add to the gunk on our head. Genius right? So when you finally decide that you are gross and you need to wash your hair you must lather rinse and repeat to get that oil and dry shampoo out of your hair. Well, if you're like me you will notice that it still looks a big gunky. Even after washing twice.

There would be many days that 'first day hair' looked like 'second day hair' which is so frustrating. I'm clean. Why don't I look it?! Yuck!

Well I decided to turn to my good friend Google for advice. I found many salon products meant to get rid of the oils and buildup left in your hair due to hair spray or dry shampoo. I thought, great! I'll just get one of those, easy. Well, those products cost about $30. If you're like me than that is not something I'm willing to do. Maybe if it was $20, but $30, that's a big hell no. So I turned to my friend Google again for advice. I found a few forums of women claiming that baby shampoo provided the same benefits as those expensive build up busting salon shampoos. Voila! I found my answer! So I went down to CVS and picked up a bottle for around $5. Gotta love that price!

Immediately after the first wash I felt a difference in my hair. I had so much volume, I'm guessing because that gunk wasn't holding it down. It was bouncy and I just couldn't help but touch it all day. At first when I started using baby shampoo it was only every other time I washed it. Going between my regular shampoo and the baby one. But it didn't take long before I was just using the baby shampoo every time. About 7 bottles later and I'm still using it!

I recommended it to friends and family. My mom swapped her expensive salon shampoo for it and hasn't looked back. She gets her hair dyed so I warned her that it may not be safe for colored hair. But she and I haven't noticed a difference with it pulling the color out or making it fade.

Also, my mom swears by washing her face with shampoo. Super weird, I know. But she does look really young for her age so I'm not gonna call her crazy. But anyways, I've started doing it too since its no tears shampoo. Might as well.I have really sensitive skin so for me it was like a light bulb went off in my head. If its made for a baby, chances are its gentle enough to use on my face. Sure enough, it doesn't irritate the sensitive skin around my eyes at all!! So if you have a sensitive face, try it out.

If you have a dry scalp or are prone to dandruff im not sure how well this will work for you. You could add a couple drops or tea tree oil to the shampoo and that will moisturize your scalp. The do make a 'moisturizing baby shampoo' I have yet to try it but I'm sure that would be perfect for anyone with a dry scalp but oily hair.

I hope that you give it a try. Its only $5 and is a great shampoo to have around when you end up with too much product or oil in your hair. Even if you don't use it everyday it comes in handy. Say you have a night out and used a ton of hairspray, it will get it out no problem! Gotta love it! Now go try it! :)



Friday, March 22, 2013

Honey & Cinnamon Hair Mask. Lighten and Condition!

Hey all! It's been forever since I've posted anything. Life has been crazy and yada, yada, ya. This is totally not crochet related but I just had to share it! Anyways let's get to the point.

Dirty dishwater blondes this is for you. Brunettes can add some color too.

So about 2 years ago I decided to swear off hair dye forever (well probably not forever but you get what I mean) so I did one last round of dye and did an ombre thing to my hair so I could just let my roots grow out and rock that look. But recently I have gotten really bored with my hair and want a change so bad. But I refuse to dye it. So I went to my good friend Google and searched for some natural ways to lighten your hair.

Sure enough I found this remedy that not only lightens your hair but conditions it and makes it smell delicious all from stuff that you may have lying around in your home. To good to be true right? I was a bit skeptical but I figured why not give it a try and I was amazed with the results!

Mind you my hair is a dirty blonde and takes well to coloring of any kind. When I used to bleach it, it would take very quickly so depending on your hair you nay not are results for just one use. My research online lead me to believe that I wouldn't really see any results after just one use, but I did. So it all depends on your hair.

The science behind it: 

I'm not going to get super technical. You can Google it and find out more if you would like. Basically, honey contains a small amount of peroxide. Mixing it with the cinnamon boosts the lightening process and helps add the golden tones. Honey is a great conditioner. It locks in the moisture.




What you need: 

Raw honey - Don't just use the kind from the bear bottle. Apparently it is important to use the raw kind. Once I went to make this mixture I found that raw honey is much more thick than the other kind of honey which helps keep it thick and creamy. They sell raw honey at any health food store or probably even the regular grocery store.

Ground cinnamon - You might as well buy the big container of it because you want you use quite a bit of it.

Conditioner - Just your regular conditioner.

Plastic bag or saran wrap - To wrap around your head after you apply it.

Bandana - Not crucial but helpful to wrap around your head you catch any drips.

I didn't measure when I mixed it all together, just eyeball it. How much you need depends on how thick and long your hair is. Try to go for equal parts honey and conditioner.

Modifications:
 So you can make changes to this mixture. I found a few different "recipes" shall we call them..? I didn't try any of these...yet.
Swap the conditioner for olive oil
Add a little bit of lemon juice
Not even using cinnamon, just raw honey and olive oil
Adding distilled water


Mix it up:

You need at least 3 tablespoons of cinnamon. I used probably about 4 or 5 though. Scoop that up and put it in a bowl.

 Take a few spoonfuls of honey and pop it into the bowl. Work it around with a spoon to get it softened up and mixed with the cinnamon. If it's really cold where you are run a blow dryer on it for a minute and that will help soften it.

Add some conditioner. Roughly equal to the amount of honey you used. Stir it all up.

You must let it sit for at least 30 minutes. The explanation of why it technical. But apparently it's important. Your hair must be damp when you apply it so perhaps take a shower to pass the time..? The smell of honey and cinnamon made me hungry so I munched :)


Ready, set, go: 

This WILL be messy. You have been warned.

Your hair must be clean (no product) and damp. Not sopping wet but not super dry. Brush through your hair and separate it into 2 or 3 parts depending on how thick your hair is you may need more.

Dip your hands into that ooey-gooey delicious smelling mess and slather it on. Make sure you're generous with it and really cover your hair. After you're done icing your head twist your hair up in a bun. Wrap the bag or saran wrap around it to keep the mess contained. If you have a bandana roll it up and wrap it around so it will catch any pesky drips that try to roll down your neck.

Now we wait. I slept with it on which is what I recommend. I put it on a bit before bed since I never actually get 8 hours of sleep. Take a towel and lay it over your pillow to avoid your pillowcase getting ruined. I shift a lot in my sleep so when I woke up my bag and bandana were a bit askew so I was grateful that I thought to lay down the towel. If you aren't planning on sleeping with it on then leave it on for at least 6 hours.


Lather, rinse, repeat:

You've done your time and now you get to rinse it out. When you go to wash it be prepared because it's going to take a lot of washing. The funny thing is, initially I thought, honey is so sticky it must be so hard to get out of your hair. But no, it was the cinnamon that really hung on there.

Rinse it well, very well. Then start shampooing. What I did was wash thoroughly twice then put some conditioner on it so I could comb through it a bit. Rinsed, shampooed again and conditioned. Inspect it to make sure you don't see any specks of cinnamon.

Take a deep breath and soak in that lovely smell. Yup, that's coming from you. Voila!

Like I said, you may or may not see a difference from just one use. You need to do this multiple times for it to really take effect. I plan on doing it again in a week or so. But for now I just can't get enough of how soft it feels and how great it smells!

Enjoy!!!

If you love inexpensive beauty tricks be sure to check out why I love baby shampoo!



Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Seed Stitch Camera Case

I love the texture of the seed stitch!


This case is designed to fit a digital camera, you can very easily add onto the chain to make it larger if needed. It uses "seed stitch" so it has a great texture!

My camera is about 4 inches wide x 2 1/2 inches tall x about 3/4 of an inch thick. I know not all cameras are the same exact size so I left as little extra room for different sizes to still fit comfortably.





Seed Stitch Camera Case

Ravelry page for this case - add it to your library! 

G/4.25mm hook
not sure exactly how much yarn it used but it was not much at all, maybe 75 yards or so

st = stitch
sts= stitches
ch = chain
sl st= slip st
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet


The case is comes out to be 5 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches tall.


You can add or decrease length by chaining any odd number

With color A
chain 19   (hold it up to your camera and make sure this length will work)
sc in 2nd ch from the hook, * dc in next st, sc in next st * dc in the last st
ch 1, sc in the first st, * dc in the next st, sc in the next st * dc in the last st
Repeat last row until piece measures 8 inches long
ch 1, sc in the first st... repeat the alternating dc and sc for the next 7 stitches (4 sc, 4 dc) , ch 2 and skip 2 sts, sc in the next st, dc in next st- repeat until the end of row  (IF you altered the number of chains than the stitch count will not add up, the button hole must be centered so for every 2 that you added onto the chain amount add 1 st onto each side of the ch 2)
ch 1, sc in the first st, * dc in the next st, sc in the next st * dc in the last st
Repeat the last row 3 more times
Fasten off with color A

Switch to color B
Attach the yarn into the very first st of project, where the starting tail is
sl st around in each st, when you work down the sides (the side where you turned) you do not work into the individual stitches, you work into the space ....seen in picture below

After you finish the sl st border you are ready to sew up the sides
It will look like this....


Flip it over so the wrong side is facing up and fold the bottom up
Sew up sides with color A
when seaming up the sides there are 2 loops and you want to go into the "inner" loop on each st



Attach the button, double check to make sure that it will line up properly
Weave in the ends and you're done! :)

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Sweet and Simple Clutch


This is a super easy clutch, it works up pretty fast. A great instant gratification project! You can use 2 colors (like I did) or just do the whole purse one single color, whatever you prefer. Enjoy! :)

Sweet and Simple Clutch

Ravelry page for this clutch - add it to your library! 

G hook
Worsted weight yarn, not sure how much I used but it wasnt much..maybe about 100 yards

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet

ch 37, hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in ea ch ch st across (ch 2 counts as hdc, 36 hdc)

ch 2 (counts as hdc), sc in next st (not the very first st) and in each st across, the very last st will be into the 2nd ch of the previous row beginning ch 2  (36 hdc)

repeat the last row until piece measures about 9 inches

switch to "flap" color... (you don't have to use 2 colors but I think the contrast makes the design pop)

ch 1, sc in very first st and each st across (36 sc)

ch1, sc in first st and in next st,  *ch 3 skip 2 sts and sc in the next st, ch 6 skip 4 sts and sc in the next st, ch 3 skip 2 sts and sc in the next st *repeat 3 times sc in the last st

ch 2, hdc in next st (not very first st), ch 1 and sc into the ch-3 space, * work 9 dc into the ch-6 space, sc into the ch-3 space, ch 3 and then sc into the next ch-3 space *repeat 2 times, work 9 dc into the ch-6 space, sc into the ch-3 space, hdc in the last 2 sts

ch 1, sc in the first st and in next st, * ch 5 and count over to the 4th dc (in the set of 9) and sc into the top of that 4th dc, sc into the top of the next 2 dc, ch 5 and work 2 sc into the ch-3 space *repeat 2 times, ch 5 and count over to the 4th dc (in the set of 9) and sc into the top of that 4th dc, sc into the top of the next 2 dc, ch 5 and skip over 4 sts and sc in the next st, sc in the last st

ch 3, dc in the next st (not the very first st), ch 3 and sc into the ch-5 space, * ch 3 and skip over the next st(1st sc) sc into the 2nd sc(in the set of 3), ch 3 and sc into the ch-5 space, ch 6 and sc into the next ch-5 space *repeat 2 times,  ch 3 and skip over the next st(1st sc) sc into the 2nd sc(in the set of 3), ch 3 and sc into the ch-5 space, ch 3 and dc in the next st, dc in the last st

ch 3 , dc in next st (not the very first st), work 4 dc into the ch-3 space, * sc into the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and sc into the next ch-3 space, work 9 dc into the ch-6 space *repeat 2 times(if you are using a large button on the 2nd time you work this you want to swap the ch 3 for a ch 4, if you are using a very small button than you want to swap it for a ch 2) , sc into the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and sc into the next ch-3 space, work 4 dc into the last ch-3 space, dc in the last 2 sts

Attach the sides together with whatever method you prefer, I simply whip stitched the sides and then flipped it inside out to hide the seams. When you attach the sides you want to leave one row untouched, basically leave one row that is not stitches together.

Weave in the ends and attach the button



what it looks like with the "flap" open

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Dots and Dashes Bolero/Shrug





This is a super easy bolero/shrug that you can adjust to fit any size! I love figuring out simple, fast and most of all easy patterns so I'm so excited to share this with you all! It is full of eyelets so it is light and airy, I love eyelets and I keep trying to figure out more fun ways to use them.

Measuring:

Figure out how far down your arm you want the shrug to go, measure from that spot across your shoulders to the same spot on your other arm. That is how wide you need to make your rectangle.
Measure around your arm in that same spot, this will be how tall to make the rectangle. You may want to add a half inch for comfort.

If you follow this pattern exactly than your piece will be about 25 inches long and fit a teen or petite/small woman. But you make it in any size with adjustments.
To adjust the size you want the number of chains to be a multiple of 4, then add 5 to that amount.


Dots and Dashes Bolero/Shrug
Ravelry page for his bolero - add it to your library!


G/6 4.25mm Hook
Worsted weight yarn
I used about about 225-275 yards but depending on how large or small you are making it will change exactly how much yarn you use

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet


Notes:
ch 3 counts as dc so the last stitch on rows will be into the 3rd chain / ch 2 counts as first hdc so the last stitch on rows will be into the 2nd ch
do not work the first stitch into the turning chain stitch
do not work your chains for the space tightly because you will have to work a stitch into the in the next row

Chain 101

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in each ch across

Row 2: ch 3, dc in next st (not very first st/same st as ch but the next st), * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next st * dc in the last st, turn

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each st across (don't dc into the very first st), turn

Row 4: ch 2, hdc in next st (not very first st/same st as ch but the next st), * ch 3 skip 3 sts, hdc in next st * hdc in the last st, turn

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each st across (don't dc into the very first st), turn

Repeat rows 2-5 until piece reaches height needed according to your measurements but you want row 2 & 3 to be the last rows worked! Don't end with row 4 & 5 otherwise when you go to work the band your pattern won't match up.

You want to fasten off but leave a long tail to sew the sleeves, go ahead and weave in the end from the very beginning to get it out of your way.



I suggest sewing together 16 stitches inward for each sleeve but you can adjust that easily if needed for size but just make sure that you work in even numbers for the stitch count!

Count 16 stitches starting at the corner (corner counts as the first stitch) and mark the 17th stitch, do the same for all the edges. Sew together those 16 stitches and stop at the marked 17th stitch. Attach yarn to the other end and join the other 16 stitches to form the other sleeve.

It should look like the picture on the right...







Attach the yarn into the marked stitch (it doesn't really matter exactly which one you start from) you will now be working in rounds. It's best to keep the markers in the stitches for the very first round so you don't accidentally work into the stitches right next to it that you used to join/sew the sides.




You will be working the same pattern as before but since you will be working in rounds so it starts and ends slightly different than working in rows. But you still do not work into the very first st.


Round 1: hdc into the same st that you attached the yarn into,  *  ch 3 skip 3 sts, hdc in the next st *  at the end of the round sl st into the top of the first hdc to join   (when you get to the parts where you joined make sure you don't count the stitches that were used to join...go from one marker to the next..like in the picture above)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into the 3rd ch of beginning ch 3 to join

Round 3: ch 4, skip 1 st, * dc in the next st, ch 1 skip 1 st *  sl st into the 3rd ch of beginning ch to join

Round 4: ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch to join

Round 5: ch 5, skip 3 sts, * hdc in the next st, ch 3 sip 3 sts * sl st into the 2nd ch of beginning ch to join

Repeat rows 2-4

Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (you could also work a sl st border instead if you prefer)

Weave in the ends




Friday, April 27, 2012

Cute Little Flower Square

Heavily inspired by the Flower Square by Beata Basik  but wanting a smaller square with less holes I decided why not come up with my own. I made a mash up of the flower square by taking the idea of the flower square but using a smaller flower and changing it up a bit. Since my intentions are to use this square for purses/clutches I wanted to make sure it didn't have a bunch of holes where you would be able to see the lining.



For my squares I used 3 colors, center, petals and base. You don't have to use a different color for the center but included in the pattern is when to do the color changes.


Cute Little Flower Square
Ravelry Page for this Cute Little Flower Square - Add it to your library! 

Size - about 2 1/2 inches, you can go up a hook size for a slightly larger square

H hook
Worsted weight yarn

US terms:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet



post stitches = the "bottom" of the stitch, the part that is wrapped around the previous row.
If you bend the petal it tends to make it a bit easier to get your hook into those stitches


Do not work the dc for the petals tightly!! You will get frustrated later when you have to work into the post stitches of the dc!



Make an adjustable/"magic" ring

Round 1: ch 1, and work 4 sc into the ring sl st into first sc to join

If you want the center a different color than switch to the petal color now

Round 2: working into the same st as join * ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, sl st, then sc into the next st  * on the last petal after you work the sl st go to the next step (5 petals)

You will now be working behind the petals into the post stitches... bend the petal down so you can get to the post stitches
Round 3: * sc into the post stitch of the first dc (in the set of 3) on the next petal, ch 2, sc in the last (3rd) dc on the same petal *   on the last petal after you worked sc into the 3rd dc sl st into the ch 2 space on the next petal to join  (5 ch 2 spaces)

Round 4: * ch 1, 4 dc, ch 1, sl st, then sc in the next ch space * after you sl st into the last petal...(5 petals)

You now want to switch to your base color

Working behind the petals into the post stitches
Round 5: sc into the post stitch of each of the 4 dc on each petal, sl st into first sc to join  (20 sc)

working in just the front loop on each st
Round 6: ch 1, sc into the same st, sc into the next st, * 4 sc in the next, sc in the next 4 sts * sc into the last st, sl st into the first sc to join





You're done!

I would love to hear/see the ways you use this little square so please share! :)






FYI: I'm working on a purse that uses these squares by attaching 4 of them together to make a big square full of flowers (like in the picture below)......so be sure to check back in the next few weeks for that pattern :)

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Six Spikes Purse




I love playing around with different stitches so I figured I would give the spike stitch a try and see what I could use it for. As I played around with it I instantly thought of using it for a purse. It comes out thick which is perfect for a purse so it helps hold its shape. After I got started trying to figure out a pattern for a purse with this stitch I realized there was a lot of math for me to do to get it right, luckily I'm good at math.... and so is my calculator. After I got it all figured out and got the project started I already knew I was gonna love the results. But it turned out better than I expected. :) I am so happy to share this pattern with you all!



If you have never used the spike stitch check out this video tutorial. I suggest doing a test strip if you have never worked the spike stitch before.
I've noticed that your better off being a little bit too tight rather than a little bit too loose, especially for a pattern like this that is worked in the round. Make sure it's snug but not super tight. It may "bubble" a little bit, and look a little wavy at the top, that's good, that means you have made the spikes nice and tight. I urge you to play around with the spikes on a test strip so you can get a feel for how to get them how you want them. If it's too loose than the strands of yarn will not drape properly and the end result will not look as polished and nice.



Six Spikes Purse

Add the Six Spikes Purse to your Ravelry library!

H/8-5mm hook
Medium worsted weight yarn

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sc-1 = sc 1 row below
sc-2 = sc 2 rows below

sc-3 = sc 3 rows below
sc-4 = sc 4 rows below
sc-5 = sc 5 rows below
insc2tog = invisible sc decrease, if you are not familiar with the invisible decrease than check out this photo tutorial

FYI: I try to put a lot of pictures to help but since I was using black you couldn't really see any of the details so if you need some help just let me know.

Base:
ch 37
sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc across, turn
ch 1, sc in each st, turn (36 sc)
repeat the last row 15 times, for a total of 17 rows of sc

switch colors- turn, ch 1 and do another row of sc (35 sc), 2 sc in last/corner st (2 sc), sc down the side (16 sc), 2 sc in last/corner st (this will be into the starting chain-where the slipknot is) (2 sc), sc into each st of starting chain (34 sc), 2 sc in last/corner (2 sc), sc down the side (16 sc), 1 sc in the last/corner, sl st to the top of the first sc

Body:
Do not chain in between rounds, you will be working in a continuous round/spiral but you want to mark the first stitch so you don't lose track of where your row starts and when to change colors. Move the marker up as you go.



sc in the same st (mark this stitch-move marker up as you go), sc in each st around (108 sc)
right before you get to the marked st there will be 1 little tight stitch, skip over it and sc in the marked st

work 5 rounds of sc, move the marker up as you go




switch color, sc, sc-1, sc-2, sc-3, sc-4, sc-5  repeat around
you should have 18 sets of stripes, it is very easy to accidentally go into the wrong stitch especially after the sc-5 when you work a regular sc in the next stitch it can be difficult to tell which stitch to go into so i suggest double checking that your going into the right stitch

sc in the next stitch and in each stitch around for 5 rounds


Repeat the last 2 rounds 3 more times


Top/Straps:
switch color (this should be the same color as your base), work a round of spikes

sc in next 2 sts, work insc2tog, work that around for the next 2 rounds


Now you're ready to make the straps... I wish I had more experience with corded and other fancy straps but I don't so if you have a different method feel free to use it!

sl st in the next 4 sts
count 14 stitches over from where your hook is, mark that 14th stitch
from that 14th stitch count 17 stitches over and mark that 17th stitch
from that 17th stitch, count 14 stitches over and mark that 14th stitch


Ch 60, sl st into the first 14th stitch that you marked
sc across chain when you get to the end sc into the next stitch over from the first one you started from. When you end a row on the straps you will want to attach to the next stitch over working towards the center, for mine I worked 4 rows of sc back and forth for the straps but if you would like to make them thicker than simply add more rows

For the other strap attach yarn into marked stitch and work it in the same way as the first strap


Lining:
I suggest lining this bag... mostly so you don't get your keys snagged on the spikes. I haven't lined mine yet because I tend to put that off until I really have to do it. But it will be easy to line this bag, you want your lining to go up to the stitches of the last set of spikes. If you're a pro at lining this should be no problem. Sorry I kinda suck at lining my bags so I don't have a tutorial for that.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Fat Owl Bag

It's a crocodile owl!
I love the look of the crocodile stitch and using it has been on my to do list for a while. It comes out really thick so I know that it wouldn't be good for any spring or summertime garments so I got to thinking how I could use this awesome stitch on an accessory. I have seen the crocodile stitch used on some really cool pieces but unfortunately (with a few exceptions) they are patterns that you have to buy. I love owls, anything with owls on it always catches my eye. I've had the Crocodile Stitch Owl in my Ravelry library for a while as inspiration since it's a pattern that you have to buy. I love the idea of the scales (as I call them) to be used as feathers....genius!

So as I usually do I sat down with some paper a pen and a few inspirational pictures and got to figuring out how I could make a purse that looks like an owl out of this stitch. It was more difficult than I had imagined and I felt like giving up but when I set my mind to something I'm not gonna stop. I made it up and pulled it all out way too many times to count, I could have probably made 5 purses in the time I wasted frogging this project over and over...but it was worth it in the end when it all started working the way I wanted it to.


This purse uses the crocodile stitch, if you are not familiar with this stitch and have never worked it before than take a moment and watch this video I also found this picture tutorial very helpful. Work up a strip, take it apart and work it up again, practice makes perfect. It will save you a lot frustration later down the road when you are working up the pattern and saying wtf does she mean?! There is not much worse than having to frog rows on your piece because you realized you made a mistake it the first few rows. I cannot stress enough that you need to know how to do the crocodile stitch before you start this pattern....you will get very lost and confused if not.


I noticed that while working this up there are many times where if you just stopped at that point you could make something else, when it is still flat I realized that it would make a really really cool hotpad! I'm going to get some cotton yarn and make one! Also once it starts to become a bowl I realized that it would make a cool bowl for yarn balls or other random nick-knacks. Especially if you use a stiffer yarn (like cotton) it would make a great bowl! I wrote in into the pattern where you would want to stop working the steps, for the hotpad but if you wish to make a bowl you have to decide where you would want to stop.



Fat Owl Bag

Add the Fat Owl Bag to your Ravelry library

Terms:

Scale:
Since its called the crocodile stitch because it looks like scales I'm going to refer to them as a scale. The scale is 10 dc around the 2 dc (5 dc around each dc)

Shell:
A shell is made of 5 dc that are all worked into 1 stitch

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet decrease


Materials:
Approx. 460 yards of medium worsted weight yarn - recommend using cotton or a stiff acrylic like Red Heart

H hook and medium/worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver, cotton work would great also)


Size of purse:
 12 inches circumference at the widest point/ 24 inches around
Band at the top is 6 inches circumference/ 18 inches around
10-11 inches tall



Make an adjustable ring

Round 1: 10 hdc into the ring, sl st to join

Round 2: Ch 3, dc into same st, * ch 2, 2 dc in next st * sl st into the 3rd chain of starting chain to join


Round 3: Ch 1, work a scale into the first 2 dc, * skip over the next set of 2 dc , work a scale into the next set of 2 dc * don't join   (5 scales)

Round 4: Ch 1, * 2 dc in the  chain space between the scale and the 2 dc, ch 2 work 2 dc into the other chain space between the scale and dc, ch 2, dc into the hole in center of the scale, ch 2 *   Sl st into the top of the last dc in the last scale to join.



 When you dc into the space between the scale and 2 dc: On the very first one in the round it will be very easy to see but as you go around you will have to pull back the scales a little bit so you can get to the chain spaces and stitches behind the scales...they hide back there.




Far chain space: when I use the phrase far chain space I'm referring to the chain space furthest from your hook, not the closest one to where your working but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round




Round 5: Ch 1, * work a scale in the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * sl st into the far chain space not the closest one to where your working or to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round   (7 scales)

Round 6: Ch 3, dc into that same space, * ch 2, 2 dc into the center of the next scale, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space, ch 2, 2 dc in the next chain space *   at the end of round ch 2 and sl st into the 3rd chain of starting chain to join

After this point you will no longer be working a sl st to join at the end of a round, instead you will just keep continuing spiraling up

Round 7: Ch 1, * work a scale into the set of 2 dc, skip the next set of 2 dc *    at the end of round work 2 dc into the far chain space not the closest one to where your working and to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round.  (10 scales)

Round 8: * Ch 2, 2 dc in the center of the scale, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space * at the end of round stop after you have worked the 2 dc into the last scale

Round 9: * Work a scale in the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * at the end of round ch 2 and then work 2 dc the far  chain space - not the closest one to where your working and to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round       (14 scales-only 14 scales will be worked in each round here and throughout)
- -IF you don't work the last 2 dc into the chain space and sl st , join and fasten off at this point you would have yourself an awesome hotpad!!! Hmm.......idea!


Space in between the 2 dc from the previous round: You will work 2 dc into the space in between the 2 dc from the previous round. Instead of working in the chain spaces like you did on every other round and skipping over the 2 dc you will be working in between those 2 dc. Work the 2 dc like this now and throughout the pattern unless otherwise specified.


Round 10: * 2 dc into the center of the scale, 2 dc in the space between the 2 dc from the previous round... instead of working in the chain spaces like you did on every other round and skipping over the 2 dc you will be work into the space between the 2 dc * at the end of round after you have worked 2 dc in to the center of the last scale stop

Round 11: *  Work a scale into the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * stop after you work the last scale 


On the rounds that you set up for the scales...the rounds that you work sets of 2 dc...the very last 2 dc that you will work in space between the 2 dc from the previous round it will be in the "hiding" 2 dc.  You may have to move the scales to get to it..it will be below and behind them. It will be a little lower but once you work the 2 dc into it, it will bring it up to the same level as the other stitches

On the rounds that you work the scales the very last scale will go there (blue arrow)

It will be like this throughout the pattern!!!! You are not stopping rounds you are spiraling upward



Round 12: *  2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc in the space between the 2 dc from the previous round *
 
Round 13: Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the next 2 dc *

Round 14: *  Ch 1, work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, ch 1, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 15: Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the next 2 dc *

Round 16: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 17: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *  

Round 18: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 19: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *  

Round 20: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 21: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *

Round 22: *  Work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 23: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 2 dc *  

Round 24: *  Work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 25: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 2 dc *  at the end of the round sl st into the top of the 1st dc in the next scale

Round 26: You will want to work into the 3rd stitch from the hook, it may be difficult to see....not the stitch that is in the center of the scale but the next stitch, work 5 dc into that stitch,  *  skip 2 stitches and sc in the 3rd st, skip 2 stitches and work 5 dc into the 3rd st.  *  at the end of the round you will sl st into the same st that you ended the last round with

Round 27: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc into the same st, sc into the top of the 3rd dc in the shell, work 5 dc into the next sc * at the end of round you will work 3 dc into the stitch you started from. sl st into the next sc (the one at the top of the next shell)

Round 28-29: Repeat last row 2 more times

Round 30: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, at the end of round sl st into the ch 1 you made at beginning of round



Ears/Straps:

Count in the direction that you are working.....count 16 stitches from where your hook is and mark that stitch, count 10 more stitches and mark the 11th stitch. Count 16 more stitches and mark that 16th stitch.

Turn your work so you are working the opposite direction that you have been working. ch 1 and sc in the next 10 stitches..you should be right next to the marker stitch, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn

Ch 1, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, fasten off

Attach yarn to where the 16th stitch marker is, ch 1 and work sc in the next 10 stitches, you should be right next to the other marker stitch, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st (the same one you attached the yarn into), sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn


Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn


Ch 1, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches

Chain 50-70... I chained 50 but if you would like a longer strap than you can chain more
Make sure you do not twist the chain!!

Attach the chain with a sl st into the other side, after you attach sc into the next stitch, turn

Work your way across the chain and at the end of the strap work a sc into the stitch on the other side (make sure it's the 2nd stitch inward not the 1st), turn

Work sc across the strap, work a sc into the stitch on the other side
Repeat 5 more times. By the end of working the strap the 5 stitches on both sides where the "ears" were made have the strap attached. On the last row sl st in the last stitch instead of sc. Fasten off.





I put a face on just one side of my purse, if you wish to have a face on both sides than make 4 eyes and 2 beaks.

Eyes: Make 2
For the eyes you will want to make a flat circle. You wish to do the eyes differently (different hook size, yarn weight) just make sure it measures to 2 1/2 inches big.
Using a G hook/medium weight yarn

Chain 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in ea sc around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 3: ch 1, * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 4: ch 1, * sc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 5: ch 1, * sc in ea of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Leave the tail long so you can use it to attach the eye to the piece.

Beak:  Make 1

I've been going back and forth of how to work the beak of the owl so if you have a way that you like best feel free to use that way. This is how I did mine:
Using a G hook
Ch 2
Sc in to the first ch twice.
Flip/turn your work and ch one.
Sc into each stitch of the last row, there should be 3 sc in this row.
Ch one then again flip your work and sc into each stitch of the previous row, there should now be 4 sc.
 I worked a sl st into each st around the border...you don't have to do this if you don't want to. Personally I don't like the triangle beaks, I prefer a shape that is similar to a guitar pick.


Lining the purse:
This bag needs a lining because of the scales there are holes in between so most likely some small items would fall out. I'm having trouble deciding the best way to line this bag. I wanted to have the pattern complete before I posted it but....I thought maybe it would be best to get some feedback on how to line this purse.

I found a tutorial that instructs you to measure the size the width of the piece and cut out 2 pieces of fabric and sew the together down the sides, which I think seems like the best solution.

If you have any better ideas please let me know



Enjoy!

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Kush Shrug

 I love shrugs! Leggings and a tunic with some added flair is a typical outfit for me so I love cute shrugs or vests to jazz up and outfit. I previously made the Simple Shrug by Lion Brand Yarn in black and I love it. It's a simple pattern where you work up a big rectangle made of rows of dc's and sew together the sides to make a cozy shrug. I decided to take that idea and change it up quite a bit. I'm also working on a light and airy daisy motif shrug but that still needs some work (and blocking) so that one is soon to come.... but is sure to be a showstopper. But for now we will just dive into how to make this shrug, I am so excited to share this pattern with you guys!!!

Crochetpatterncentral.com picked up this pattern and put it in their library :)












I love the colors in this yarn!

This is a great pattern to use a self striping or ombre yarn with. You could also take this pattern and make a small rectangle and sew the sides to make a cropped version like many other smaller shrug/boleros.

This pattern may look slightly confusing but it is pretty simple I just would rather over explain that not give enough information.

Hook and yarn:
You can use any hook and size because you adjust how many sets you need according to the size of your sets. I recommend an H hook and medium worsted acrylic blend yarn but you can use what you like best. But be careful with cotton yarns because you want this piece to have some stretch and flow to it and cotton tends to be a little less flexible.

Button:

How big is the button you plan on using? This is very important when it comes to how many to chain for your button hole. I recommend doing a quick small square of hdc using the appropriate ch size (below) for your button you make sure it fits through but doesn't have to much space to where it will slip out. The button I used is the double quarter size (double the size of a quarter), as you can see in the example pictures.
Quarter size - ch 1 and skip 1 st
Double quarter size/large - ch 2 and skip 2 sts

Measurements:
You need to determine how big to make the rectangle for your shrug. Grab a measuring strip, a pen and paper.  Determine the middle point between your elbow and shoulder, now go about an inch above that. That is what I am going to refer to as the top of your arm.

#1. Measure from the top of your arm spot across your shoulders to that same spot on your other arm. Write that measurement down as #1. 
#2.  Measure from the top of your shoulders down your back to about 5 inches above where you want the piece to stop. (the band will accommodate for those extra 5 inches) Write that measurement down as #2.
#3. Measure from the top of your shoulder down to the top of your arm spot. Write that measurement down as #3. 

You will need to determine how many "sets" you will need to achieve the size needed according to measurement #1.

Sets:
Each "set" is made of 5 dc's + ch 1 space. Do a test strip with your yarn and hook of choice. Measure the length of your set, you don't need to worry about the height of the set.


I used a H(5mm) Hook and worsted weight yarn and my "sets" are each 2 inches long. For example, on my shrug I put a total of 10 sets + the last  5 dc's so the piece is 21 1/2 inches wide.

The reason I'm making it confusing with the sets is so you can use any hook size and yarn you choose without it affecting the size of the garment. 


The multiple is 6   then + 5 (for last set of dc's)  and + 2 (for starting dc)

Example:
If your "sets" are 2 inches long and you want your piece to be about 22 inches you will need 10 sets + the last sets of 5 dc's
So you would need to chain 67
( 6x10=60 +5 +2=67 )


Kush Shrug
Ravelry page for the Kush Shrug - Add it to your library!


I used an H(5mm) Hook and a medium worsted weight soft acrylic blend yarn which is what I recommend but you can use other sizes (as explained above)

I used approx 600 yards/10.5 oz for mine but it will vary depending on how large or small you make your shrug
In the pattern I use the term "very first stitch

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet


Main piece:

Repeat from * * across
Chain ____ (according to your calculations)
Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 3, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 *
Row 2: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 4 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 4
Row 3: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 2 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 *ch 1 skip 1 st,  dc in last 6
Row 4: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 3
Row 5: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next st * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 7
Row 6: ch 3 dc in very first, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 2
Row 7: ch 3 dc in very first, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 2
Row 8: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next st * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 7
Row 9: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 3
Row 10: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 2 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 6
Row 11: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 4 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 4
Row 12: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 3 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 5
Row 13: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 3 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 5
Repeat rows 2-13 until piece reaches the size according to measurement #2
Do not tie off! But you do want to weave in the end from the beginning.

Trim:

 Once you finish making your piece lay it flat and take the side with the yarn still attached and fold it over according to however many inches you have for measurement #3. Make sure it is even on both sides, mark that spot on both sides.

when working down the sides








Slip stitch into the stitch you marked (to join)
Ch 2, turn so your are working across the top/neck/short side work hdc into each st across when you get to the end sl st into the other marker stitch to join.

hdc into that same stitch, *2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st *
When you get to the end of the side work 3 hdc into the corner stitch  Repeat between ** across

hdc in each stitch across, at the end of the bottom side work 3 hdc into the corner stitch

Work up the side the exact same way as you did the other side. (2 hdc into next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st)  sl st to join in the ch 2 (the one you made right after you joined the first sides)

From here on out you will be working in rounds.
Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st into ch 2 to join
Round 2: Repeat last round
Round 3: Repeat last round

Stop and try on the piece, while you have it on locate your "solar plexus"/celiac plexus, that's the area where your ribs come to a v in the center or your chest...right in the middle near of the bottom of your boobies. Pull both the sides together so they meet up at your plexus, that is where you will want to put the button. You may have to tug on it a bit to get it to meet which is normal because the piece will stretch more once worn. If it is too tight and you cannot get it to meet even when stretched a bit than do a few more rows of hdc. Mark those stitches on both sides but make sure they are even. It is helpful if you mark them then take off the piece and count the rows from the bottom up so you are sure they are even. You can either add just one button (like I did), add 2 buttons or add buttons all the way down, whatever you prefer.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in each st, when you get the the marked stitch stop
chain 1 and skip 1 st - small button or chain 2 and skip 2 sts - large button
whichever depending on your button size then hdc into the next stitch and continue working around, when you get to the next marker just keep going but leave that marker in that spot to refer to later. at the end of round sl st to join.

Round 5: ch 2, work hdc in each st around (including chain for button hole) sl st to join
Round 6: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join
Round 7: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join

Trim on sleeves:

You will now want to attach the yarn into the "armpit", attach into the same stitch where you joined the sides together. Ch 2 and hdc into the same st, hdc in the next 2 sts, * work 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next, 2 hdc in the next st * (the same way you did the sides) sl st to beginning ch 2 to join
Ch 2 and hdc in each st around, tie off
Do the other sleeve the same way

Attach the button in the stitch that you marked earlier. weave in all the ends and you're done!


Monday, April 9, 2012

The "Fat Bag"...Even Fatter! My new favorite purse!

Ever since I first learned to crochet I have seen pictures of this awesome purse that I knew I wanted to make, unfortunately when I went to find the pattern I found a chart or instructions in a language I don't understand. Luckily after some searching I found this great tutorial by Bend Beanies on how to make the "Fat Bag".



Original design "Fat Bag" by Samanta Maragno

CLICK on the image to make it bigger
The chart is the original design, "Bend Beanies" edited the pattern by adding extra rows. The first one I made I made was according to Bend Beanies edits. I was happy with it but I personally like a very deep purse and I felt like my stuff was going to fall out of it if I bent down so I sat down and figured out how to make it the way I want it. I sketched it out and worked it up and I am extremely happy with the results. The first day I was wearing it I was at JoAnns and got complimented by some fellow crocheters in the yarn isle!


One thing that I think made my purse pop was that I used 2 different ombre yarns. Both were Lily's Sugar and Cream and both had 2 common colors. (shades named Moondance & Beach Ball Blue) I switched the yarns after every 2 rows. The common colors of these 2 yarns were white and light blue. I highly recommend using Sugar and Cream because they have a great selection of self striping/ombre yarns and the stiffness the cotton provides is perfect for this purse. I added a few rows of just white cotton in the middle rows of the strap so it has colored "borders".

The changes I made are simple, normally you start by working 5 hdc on each side of the increase and stop increasing at 18 on each side. With my edit you start with 7 on each side of the increase and stop increasing at 24 on each side. The other change I made is that when you are working the straps you work some decreases.



Ravelry page for this fatter fat bag - Add it to your library!

Fatter "Fat Bag"

H Hook
Uses approx. 350 yards, it depends on how long and wide you make the straps

sl st= slip stitch
sts=stitches
st=stitch
sc= single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
hdc2tog= half double crochet decrease
hdc increase= 2 hdc's into one stitch

All turning chain 2 count as a hdc

Chain 23
hdc into the 3rd chain from the hook, hdc in next 6 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7
ch 2, hdc in next 7 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 8 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 9 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 10 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 11 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 11 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 12 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 13 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 14  sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 15 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 16  sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 16 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 17 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 17 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 18  sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 18 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 19 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 19 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 20  sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 20 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 21 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 21 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 22 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 22 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 23 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 23 sts., 2 hdc in next st., hdc in next 5, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 24 sts, turn
Work hdc across in each stitch for 24 rows (you can add extra rows if you would like)
ch 2, hdc in next 23 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 24 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 22 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 23sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 21 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 22 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 20 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 21 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 19 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 20 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 18 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 19 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 17 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 18 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 16 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 17 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 15 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 16 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 14 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 15 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 13 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 11 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 12 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 11 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 8 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 9 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 7 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 8 sts, turn
ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts., hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 sts
fasten off and weave in the ends

I had an old Ed Hardy scarf that I was able to upcycle it and use it to line my purse, which I think is a great compliment to the other colors.

Lining the purse:
I highly recommend lining this purse, you don't have to but I think you should.
The Bend Beanies tutorial is great for lining the purse and starting the band and straps so use that. They provide lots of pictures and a great detailed explaination. But remember that you want to really squoosh the piece together and do the first band row (working into the turning chains) tightly.. the tighter the more the pleats will stand out. Their directions are correct..do not do that row loosely! So pop over there and then once your ready to do the first row on the straps (after you've done the chains) you can follow the direction below.

After you've worked up the "band" and started the straps by working the chains and now you're back to where you first attached the yarn for the straps.
Find the 5 stitches that were worked in the middle between the increases/decreases and mark the stitches next to them so you can use these 5 stitches as a reference for the center.
sc around in each stitch
decrease, sc, decrease into the 5 stitches between the markers
3 decreases centered above the markers
2 decreases centered above the markers
1 decrease centered above the markers
sc around in each stitch
sc around in each stitch
If you want super wide straps than do more rows of sc
fasten off and weave in the ends :)

My colorful Fat Bag!

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Hexagon Slouch Hat

I am very excited to share this hat with you guys! I was inspired by the "ripple" patterns that you see on scarves, blankets, shawls and more. I wanted to take that ripple effect and use it on a slouchy hat. I found some similar designs out there but they all either used a lightweight sock yarn, not slouchy or just wasn't what I wanted. I am so happy with the outcome of the hat! I already made 3! You can use as many colors as you would like, I wish I had more in my stash so I could make one with rainbow stripes.



Ravelry page for this hat - Add it to your library!

**I recently realized I have a very small head (try not to laugh at me) so you may want to go up in hookvsize to get the size you may need for the band**

Hexagon Slouch Hat

Stitches used:
ch - Chain
slst - Slip Stitch
dc - Double Crochet
dc2tog - Double Crochet Decrease

H/5mm Hook

Notes:
Repeat between ** around
When you work dc's into the chain space you must work them into the space, not into the chain stitch.
I did not include when to switch colors in the pattern because you may choose to switch colors after each round, use a self striping yarn or use ombre yarn. The choice is up to you when you switch colors and how many colors you use.


- 12 dc into adjustable ring, slst to join
- Ch 3 (will count as dc here and through the pattern), dc into the same stitch (as slst), *ch 1, work 2 dc into the next stitch*, at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 2 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 2 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 3 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 3 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 4 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 4 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 5 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 5 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 6 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 6 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 7 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 7 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 8 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 8 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.
- Ch 3, dc in next stitch, *ch 1, dc in next 9 stitches, dc into the chain space (see above for details), ch 1, dc into same chain space, dc in next 9 stitches*  at the end each of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain made at the beginning.

-At this point you will no longer work any dc's into the chain space, this begins the decrease rounds

- slst into the top of next stitch, Ch 4, *dc in next stitch, dc2tog, dc in next 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc in next stitch, ch 1*  at the end of the round , dc2tog in last 2 stitches then slst into the 3rd chain of chain 4 made at the beginning.
- Ch 4, *dc in next stitch, dc2tog, dc in next 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc in next stitch, ch 1*  at the end of the round , dc2tog in last 2 stitches then slst into the 3rd chain of chain 4 made at the beginning.
- Ch 4, *dc in next stitch, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next stitch, ch 1*  at the end of the round , dc2tog in last 2 stitches then slst into the 3rd chain of chain 4 made at the beginning.

Note: You need to assess the yarn your working with and the size of the head this hat will be worn on. If you are working with a more stiff type of yarn (cotton, Red Heart Super Saver etc) you will want to Ch. 2 but if you are working with a softer yarn that has more stretch you will want to just work Ch. 1. Also if the head this will be worn on is large than you would want to Ch. 2. You want this band to have a lot of stretch or it won't fit properly.

- Ch 5, *dc in next 4 stitches, ch 1 or 2 (see note above)* at the end of round slst into the 3rd chain of chain 4 made at the beginning.
- Repeat the last row 2 more times or until the band is as wide as you would like

I'm a very visual person I figured I would make this to further explain round 3.

The increases are worked into the chain space. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message and I will help as much as possible.




 With stiffer yarns the stripes are more prominent but the hat will have less slouch. As you can see the yellow/ pink and pink hats were made with Red Heart Super Saver and the black/grey/white one was made with Bernat Satin.

Be sure to check out my other posts and patterns
Enjoy :)

Monday, April 2, 2012

Holy $#!%...my thumb is hurting!

My thumb has been killing me lately from crochet. I have been trying to take lots of breaks and let my hands rest but OMG they are killing me! I was thinking of investing in one of those more expensive hooks with the large handles (right now I'm just using the basic/cheap aluminum Boye hooks). Does anybody have one of those...or have any recommendations? My main problem is that I have a "hitchhikers thumb" when I hold my hook my thumb tends to bend back into the hitchhikers position and then since I'm applying pressure it really take a toll on my thumb. It has been "clicking" when it bends back. I was just wondering if any of you have this issue and what you have done to work around the problem. I would really appreciate any input because my poor projects have been hibernating because of it. Thanks!

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Spring Hat Fever! Simply Burst Beret

 I'm am making the transition from making a bunch of scarves and beanies to leaping into spring with some cute colorful berets and shrugs.
Check out those colors! I love the different shades of green and pink. It just screams spring!

I really wish I had a better camera so you could see this hat better!!! I am in love with this pattern, it's so light and airy and it looks awesome with this multicolored yarn. I used Caron (my favorite brand) Simply Soft Paints in the color "Rose Garden". I love this yarn, it is the same one I used for the puff stitches on my Pretty Puffs hat and scarf. It is the perfect yarn to use because it has so much stretch to it which you want for this hat.

This is a free pattern that is offered on Ravelry, it is not my pattern.

Simply Burst Beret



I suggest trying this pattern out with some light and flexible yarn for optimum "slouchyness" (my new word). This hat works up very very quickly. It took me only 1 1/2 episodes of Grey's Anatomy and I was done!

So get to it hookers!