Fat Owl Bag

It's a crocodile owl!

I love the look of the crocodile stitch and using it has been on my to do list for a while. It comes out really thick so I know that it wouldn't be good for any spring or summertime garments so I got to thinking how I could use this awesome stitch on an accessory. I have seen the crocodile stitch used on some really cool pieces but unfortunately (with a few exceptions) they are patterns that you have to buy. I love owls, anything with owls on it always catches my eye. I've had the Crocodile Stitch Owl in my Ravelry library for a while as inspiration since it's a pattern that you have to buy. I love the idea of the scales (as I call them) to be used as feathers....genius!

So as I usually do I sat down with some paper a pen and a few inspirational pictures and got to figuring out how I could make a purse that looks like an owl out of this stitch. It was more difficult than I had imagined and I felt like giving up but when I set my mind to something I'm not gonna stop. I made it up and pulled it all out way too many times to count, I could have probably made 5 purses in the time I wasted frogging this project over and over...but it was worth it in the end when it all started working the way I wanted it to.

This purse uses the crocodile stitch, if you are not familiar with this stitch and have never worked it before than take a moment and watch this video I also found this picture tutorial very helpful. Work up a strip, take it apart and work it up again, practice makes perfect. It will save you a lot frustration later down the road when you are working up the pattern and saying wtf does she mean?! There is not much worse than having to frog rows on your piece because you realized you made a mistake it the first few rows. I cannot stress enough that you need to know how to do the crocodile stitch before you start this pattern....you will get very lost and confused if not.


I noticed that while working this up there are many times where if you just stopped at that point you could make something else, when it is still flat I realized that it would make a really really cool hotpad! I'm going to get some cotton yarn and make one! Also once it starts to become a bowl I realized that it would make a cool bowl for yarn balls or other random nick-knacks. Especially if you use a stiffer yarn (like cotton) it would make a great bowl! I wrote in into the pattern where you would want to stop working the steps, for the hotpad but if you wish to make a bowl you have to decide where you would want to stop.



Fat Owl Bag

Add the Fat Owl Bag to your Ravelry library

Terms:

Scale:
Since its called the crocodile stitch because it looks like scales I'm going to refer to them as a scale. The scale is 10 dc around the 2 dc (5 dc around each dc)

Shell:
A shell is made of 5 dc that are all worked into 1 stitch

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sc2tog = single crochet decrease


Materials:
Approx. 460 yards of medium worsted weight yarn - recommend using cotton or a stiff acrylic like Red Heart

H hook and medium/worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver, cotton work would great also)


Size of purse:
 12 inches circumference at the widest point/ 24 inches around
Band at the top is 6 inches circumference/ 18 inches around
10-11 inches tall



Make an adjustable ring

Round 1: 10 hdc into the ring, sl st to join

Round 2: Ch 3, dc into same st, * ch 2, 2 dc in next st * sl st into the 3rd chain of starting chain to join


Round 3: Ch 1, work a scale into the first 2 dc, * skip over the next set of 2 dc , work a scale into the next set of 2 dc * don't join   (5 scales)

Round 4: Ch 1, * 2 dc in the  chain space between the scale and the 2 dc, ch 2 work 2 dc into the other chain space between the scale and dc, ch 2, dc into the hole in center of the scale, ch 2 *   Sl st into the top of the last dc in the last scale to join.



 When you dc into the space between the scale and 2 dc: On the very first one in the round it will be very easy to see but as you go around you will have to pull back the scales a little bit so you can get to the chain spaces and stitches behind the scales...they hide back there.




Far chain space: when I use the phrase far chain space I'm referring to the chain space furthest from your hook, not the closest one to where your working but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round




Round 5: Ch 1, * work a scale in the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * sl st into the far chain space not the closest one to where your working or to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round   (7 scales)

Round 6: Ch 3, dc into that same space, * ch 2, 2 dc into the center of the next scale, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space, ch 2, 2 dc in the next chain space *   at the end of round ch 2 and sl st into the 3rd chain of starting chain to join

After this point you will no longer be working a sl st to join at the end of a round, instead you will just keep continuing spiraling up

Round 7: Ch 1, * work a scale into the set of 2 dc, skip the next set of 2 dc *    at the end of round work 2 dc into the far chain space not the closest one to where your working and to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round.  (10 scales)

Round 8: * Ch 2, 2 dc in the center of the scale, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space, ch 2, 2 dc in the chain space * at the end of round stop after you have worked the 2 dc into the last scale

Round 9: * Work a scale in the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * at the end of round ch 2 and then work 2 dc the far  chain space - not the closest one to where your working and to your hook but the one on the other side of the 2 dc worked in the previous round       (14 scales-only 14 scales will be worked in each round here and throughout)
- -IF you don't work the last 2 dc into the chain space and sl st , join and fasten off at this point you would have yourself an awesome hotpad!!! Hmm.......idea!

Space in between the 2 dc from the previous round: You will work 2 dc into the space in between the 2 dc from the previous round. Instead of working in the chain spaces like you did on every other round and skipping over the 2 dc you will be working in between those 2 dc. Work the 2 dc like this now and throughout the pattern unless otherwise specified.


Round 10: * 2 dc into the center of the scale, 2 dc in the space between the 2 dc from the previous round... instead of working in the chain spaces like you did on every other round and skipping over the 2 dc you will be work into the space between the 2 dc * at the end of round after you have worked 2 dc in to the center of the last scale stop

Round 11: *  Work a scale into the 2 dc, skip the next 2 dc * stop after you work the last scale 


On the rounds that you set up for the scales...the rounds that you work sets of 2 dc...the very last 2 dc that you will work in space between the 2 dc from the previous round it will be in the "hiding" 2 dc.  You may have to move the scales to get to it..it will be below and behind them. It will be a little lower but once you work the 2 dc into it, it will bring it up to the same level as the other stitches

On the rounds that you work the scales the very last scale will go there (blue arrow)

It will be like this throughout the pattern!!!! You are not stopping rounds you are spiraling upward



Round 12: *  2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc in the space between the 2 dc from the previous round *
 
Round 13: Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the next 2 dc *

Round 14: *  Ch 1, work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, ch 1, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 15: Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the next 2 dc *

Round 16: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 17: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *  

Round 18: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 19: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *  

Round 20: *  Ch 2, 4 dc in the center of the next scale,ch 2, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 21: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 4 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 4 dc *

Round 22: *  Work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc (in the set of 4) from the previous round  *

Round 23: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 2 dc *  

Round 24: *  Work 2 dc into the center of the next scale, 2 dc into the space between the 2 dc from the previous round  *

Round 25: Ch 2,  Skip over the first set of 2 dc(the one that was worked into the scale) and * work a scale into the next set of 2 dc,  skip the set of 2 dc *  at the end of the round sl st into the top of the 1st dc in the next scale

Round 26: You will want to work into the 3rd stitch from the hook, it may be difficult to see....not the stitch that is in the center of the scale but the next stitch, work 5 dc into that stitch,  *  skip 2 stitches and sc in the 3rd st, skip 2 stitches and work 5 dc into the 3rd st.  *  at the end of the round you will sl st into the same st that you ended the last round with

Round 27: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc into the same st, sc into the top of the 3rd dc in the shell, work 5 dc into the next sc * at the end of round you will work 3 dc into the stitch you started from. sl st into the next sc (the one at the top of the next shell)

Round 28-29: Repeat last row 2 more times

Round 30: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch around, at the end of round sl st into the ch 1 you made at beginning of round



Ears/Straps:

Count in the direction that you are working.....count 16 stitches from where your hook is and mark that stitch, count 10 more stitches and mark the 11th stitch. Count 16 more stitches and mark that 16th stitch.

Turn your work so you are working the opposite direction that you have been working. ch 1 and sc in the next 10 stitches..you should be right next to the marker stitch, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn

Ch 1, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, fasten off

Attach yarn to where the 16th stitch marker is, ch 1 and work sc in the next 10 stitches, you should be right next to the other marker stitch, turn

Ch 1, sc in the first st (the same one you attached the yarn into), sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn


Ch 1, sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the last st, turn


Ch 1, sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 stitches

Chain 50-70... I chained 50 but if you would like a longer strap than you can chain more
Make sure you do not twist the chain!!

Attach the chain with a sl st into the other side, after you attach sc into the next stitch, turn

Work your way across the chain and at the end of the strap work a sc into the stitch on the other side (make sure it's the 2nd stitch inward not the 1st), turn

Work sc across the strap, work a sc into the stitch on the other side
Repeat 5 more times. By the end of working the strap the 5 stitches on both sides where the "ears" were made have the strap attached. On the last row sl st in the last stitch instead of sc. Fasten off.





I put a face on just one side of my purse, if you wish to have a face on both sides than make 4 eyes and 2 beaks.

Eyes: Make 2
For the eyes you will want to make a flat circle. You wish to do the eyes differently (different hook size, yarn weight) just make sure it measures to 2 1/2 inches big.
Using a G hook/medium weight yarn

Chain 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in ea sc around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 3: ch 1, * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 4: ch 1, * sc in ea of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Rnd 5: ch 1, * sc in ea of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc * around. Sl st in first sc, to join.
Leave the tail long so you can use it to attach the eye to the piece.

Beak:  Make 1

I've been going back and forth of how to work the beak of the owl so if you have a way that you like best feel free to use that way. This is how I did mine:
Using a G hook
Ch 2
Sc in to the first ch twice.
Flip/turn your work and ch one.
Sc into each stitch of the last row, there should be 3 sc in this row.
Ch one then again flip your work and sc into each stitch of the previous row, there should now be 4 sc.
 I worked a sl st into each st around the border...you don't have to do this if you don't want to. Personally I don't like the triangle beaks, I prefer a shape that is similar to a guitar pick.


Lining the purse:
This bag needs a lining because of the scales there are holes in between so most likely some small items would fall out. I'm having trouble deciding the best way to line this bag. I wanted to have the pattern complete before I posted it but....I thought maybe it would be best to get some feedback on how to line this purse.

I found a tutorial that instructs you to measure the size the width of the piece and cut out 2 pieces of fabric and sew the together down the sides, which I think seems like the best solution.

If you have any better ideas please let me know

Enjoy!