Dots and Dashes Bolero/Shrug

This is a super easy bolero/shrug that you can adjust to fit any size! I love figuring out simple, fast and most of all easy patterns so I'm so excited to share this with you all! It is full of eyelets so it is light and airy, I love eyelets and I keep trying to figure out more fun ways to use them.

Measuring:

Figure out how far down your arm you want the shrug to go, measure from that spot across your shoulders to the same spot on your other arm. That is how wide you need to make your rectangle.
Measure around your arm in that same spot, this will be how tall to make the rectangle. You may want to add a half inch for comfort and stretch. If your yarn is not one that gives easily or stretches than you may want to add 1 inch.

If you follow this pattern exactly than your piece will be about 25 inches long and fit a teen or petite/small woman (around 100 lbs or less). But you can make it in any size with adjustments.
To adjust the size you want the number of chains to be a multiple of 4, then add 5 to that amount. The great thing about this pattern is its so easy to adjust to any size!!


Dots and Dashes Bolero/Shrug
Ravelry page for his bolero - add it to your library!


G/6 4.25mm Hook
Worsted weight yarn
I used about about 225-275 yards but depending on how large or small you are making it will change exactly how much yarn you use

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet


Notes:
ch 3 counts as dc so the last stitch on rows will be into the 3rd chain / ch 2 counts as first hdc so the last stitch on rows will be into the 2nd ch
do not work the first stitch into the turning chain stitch
do not work your chains for the space tightly because you will have to work a stitch into the in the next row

Chain 101 (this is MY starting chain size, yours may be different for size adjustments)

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in each ch across

Row 2: ch 3, dc in next st (not very first st/same st as ch but the next st), * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next st * dc in the last st, turn

Row 3: ch 3, dc in each st across (don't dc into the very first st), turn

Row 4: ch 2, hdc in next st (not very first st/same st as ch but the next st), * ch 3 skip 3 sts, hdc in next st * hdc in the last st, turn

Row 5: ch 3, dc in each st across (don't dc into the very first st), turn

Repeat rows 2-5 until piece reaches height needed according to your measurements but you want row 2 & 3 to be the last rows worked! Don't end with row 4 & 5 otherwise when you go to work the band your pattern won't match up.

You want to fasten off but leave a long tail to sew the sleeves, go ahead and weave in the end from the very beginning to get it out of your way.



I suggest sewing together 16 stitches inward for each sleeve but you can adjust that easily if needed for size but just make sure that you work in even numbers for the stitch count! Please adjust it if needed instead of completing it and commenting that it was too tight. I want you to love your project! Only do 12 if that seems more comfortable. It all depends on your fit and how far down your arm you measured from. 

Count 16 stitches (or less) starting at the corner (corner counts as the first stitch) and mark the 17th stitch, do the same for all the edges. Sew together those 16 stitches and stop at the marked 17th stitch. Attach yarn to the other end and join the other 16 stitches to form the other sleeve.

It should look like the picture on the right...







Attach the yarn into the marked stitch (it doesn't really matter exactly which one you start from) you will now be working in rounds. It's best to keep the markers in the stitches for the very first round so you don't accidentally work into the stitches right next to it that you used to join/sew the sides.




You will be working the same pattern as before but since you will be working in rounds so it starts and ends slightly different than working in rows. But you still do not work into the very first st.


Round 1: hdc into the same st that you attached the yarn into,  *  ch 3 skip 3 sts, hdc in the next st *  at the end of the round sl st into the top of the first hdc to join   (when you get to the parts where you joined make sure you don't count the stitches that were used to join...go from one marker to the next..like in the picture above)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into the 3rd ch of beginning ch 3 to join

Round 3: ch 4, skip 1 st, * dc in the next st, ch 1 skip 1 st *  sl st into the 3rd ch of beginning ch to join

Round 4: ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch to join

Round 5: ch 5, skip 3 sts, * hdc in the next st, ch 3 sip 3 sts * sl st into the 2nd ch of beginning ch to join

Repeat rows 2-4

Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join (you could also work a sl st border instead if you prefer)

Weave in the ends