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Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Kush Shrug

 I love shrugs! Leggings and a tunic with some added flair is a typical outfit for me so I love cute shrugs or vests to jazz up and outfit. I previously made the Simple Shrug by Lion Brand Yarn in black and I love it. It's a simple pattern where you work up a big rectangle made of rows of dc's and sew together the sides to make a cozy shrug. I decided to take that idea and change it up quite a bit. I'm also working on a light and airy daisy motif shrug but that still needs some work (and blocking) so that one is soon to come.... but is sure to be a showstopper. But for now we will just dive into how to make this shrug, I am so excited to share this pattern with you guys!!!

Crochetpatterncentral.com picked up this pattern and put it in their library :)












I love the colors in this yarn!

This is a great pattern to use a self striping or ombre yarn with. You could also take this pattern and make a small rectangle and sew the sides to make a cropped version like many other smaller shrug/boleros.

This pattern may look slightly confusing but it is pretty simple I just would rather over explain that not give enough information.

Hook and yarn:
You can use any hook and size because you adjust how many sets you need according to the size of your sets. I recommend an H hook and medium worsted acrylic blend yarn but you can use what you like best. But be careful with cotton yarns because you want this piece to have some stretch and flow to it and cotton tends to be a little less flexible.

Button:

How big is the button you plan on using? This is very important when it comes to how many to chain for your button hole. I recommend doing a quick small square of hdc using the appropriate ch size (below) for your button you make sure it fits through but doesn't have to much space to where it will slip out. The button I used is the double quarter size (double the size of a quarter), as you can see in the example pictures.
Quarter size - ch 1 and skip 1 st
Double quarter size/large - ch 2 and skip 2 sts

Measurements:
You need to determine how big to make the rectangle for your shrug. Grab a measuring strip, a pen and paper.  Determine the middle point between your elbow and shoulder, now go about an inch above that. That is what I am going to refer to as the top of your arm.

#1. Measure from the top of your arm spot across your shoulders to that same spot on your other arm. Write that measurement down as #1. 
#2.  Measure from the top of your shoulders down your back to about 5 inches above where you want the piece to stop. (the band will accommodate for those extra 5 inches) Write that measurement down as #2.
#3. Measure from the top of your shoulder down to the top of your arm spot. Write that measurement down as #3. 

You will need to determine how many "sets" you will need to achieve the size needed according to measurement #1.

Sets:
Each "set" is made of 5 dc's + ch 1 space. Do a test strip with your yarn and hook of choice. Measure the length of your set, you don't need to worry about the height of the set.


I used a H(5mm) Hook and worsted weight yarn and my "sets" are each 2 inches long. For example, on my shrug I put a total of 10 sets + the last  5 dc's so the piece is 21 1/2 inches wide.

The reason I'm making it confusing with the sets is so you can use any hook size and yarn you choose without it affecting the size of the garment. 


The multiple is 6   then + 5 (for last set of dc's)  and + 2 (for starting dc)

Example:
If your "sets" are 2 inches long and you want your piece to be about 22 inches you will need 10 sets + the last sets of 5 dc's
So you would need to chain 67
( 6x10=60 +5 +2=67 )


Kush Shrug
Ravelry page for the Kush Shrug - Add it to your library!


I used an H(5mm) Hook and a medium worsted weight soft acrylic blend yarn which is what I recommend but you can use other sizes (as explained above)

I used approx 600 yards/10.5 oz for mine but it will vary depending on how large or small you make your shrug
In the pattern I use the term "very first stitch

st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet


Main piece:

Repeat from * * across
Chain ____ (according to your calculations)
Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 3, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 *
Row 2: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 4 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 4
Row 3: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 2 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 *ch 1 skip 1 st,  dc in last 6
Row 4: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 3
Row 5: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next st * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 7
Row 6: ch 3 dc in very first, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 2
Row 7: ch 3 dc in very first, * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 2
Row 8: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next st * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 7
Row 9: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 3
Row 10: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 2 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 6
Row 11: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 4 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 4
Row 12: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 3 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 5
Row 13: ch 3 dc in very first, dc in next 3 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in next 5 * ch 1 skip 1 st, dc in last 5
Repeat rows 2-13 until piece reaches the size according to measurement #2
Do not tie off! But you do want to weave in the end from the beginning.

Trim:

 Once you finish making your piece lay it flat and take the side with the yarn still attached and fold it over according to however many inches you have for measurement #3. Make sure it is even on both sides, mark that spot on both sides.

when working down the sides








Slip stitch into the stitch you marked (to join)
Ch 2, turn so your are working across the top/neck/short side work hdc into each st across when you get to the end sl st into the other marker stitch to join.

hdc into that same stitch, *2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st *
When you get to the end of the side work 3 hdc into the corner stitch  Repeat between ** across

hdc in each stitch across, at the end of the bottom side work 3 hdc into the corner stitch

Work up the side the exact same way as you did the other side. (2 hdc into next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st)  sl st to join in the ch 2 (the one you made right after you joined the first sides)

From here on out you will be working in rounds.
Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st into ch 2 to join
Round 2: Repeat last round
Round 3: Repeat last round

Stop and try on the piece, while you have it on locate your "solar plexus"/celiac plexus, that's the area where your ribs come to a v in the center or your chest...right in the middle near of the bottom of your boobies. Pull both the sides together so they meet up at your plexus, that is where you will want to put the button. You may have to tug on it a bit to get it to meet which is normal because the piece will stretch more once worn. If it is too tight and you cannot get it to meet even when stretched a bit than do a few more rows of hdc. Mark those stitches on both sides but make sure they are even. It is helpful if you mark them then take off the piece and count the rows from the bottom up so you are sure they are even. You can either add just one button (like I did), add 2 buttons or add buttons all the way down, whatever you prefer.

Round 4: ch 2, hdc in each st, when you get the the marked stitch stop
chain 1 and skip 1 st - small button or chain 2 and skip 2 sts - large button
whichever depending on your button size then hdc into the next stitch and continue working around, when you get to the next marker just keep going but leave that marker in that spot to refer to later. at the end of round sl st to join.

Round 5: ch 2, work hdc in each st around (including chain for button hole) sl st to join
Round 6: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join
Round 7: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join

Trim on sleeves:

You will now want to attach the yarn into the "armpit", attach into the same stitch where you joined the sides together. Ch 2 and hdc into the same st, hdc in the next 2 sts, * work 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next, 2 hdc in the next st * (the same way you did the sides) sl st to beginning ch 2 to join
Ch 2 and hdc in each st around, tie off
Do the other sleeve the same way

Attach the button in the stitch that you marked earlier. weave in all the ends and you're done!


9 comments:

  1. this is beautiful! Im "hooked" on your blog lol! :) Just finished the bag pattern you posted...I got so giddy when I saw it on here cause I wanted that "fat bag" so badly but just couldnt understand the pattern even when I google translated it. THANK YOU for posting beautiful things!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! I'm so glad I could help, I know a lot of people were holding back on making that purse because it's just a chart. Thanks for reading! :)

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  2. What exactly is the name of the yarn you used. I love the colors. Please? You can reach me at Flametide(@)aol(dot)com

    thank you
    Gayle

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    Replies
    1. I sent you an email with some links to purchase the yarn. :) I love those colors and plus the yarn is really soft!

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  3. Thanks for the great patterns! I am a grandma trying to exist on extreme low-income and have six grand-kids and nearly unlimited nephews/neices, friends, cousins, etc. All holiday/event gifts from me are crochet or sewn. Finding a big bag of yarn or leftover fabrics are like Christmas to me! Finding your patterns for free is is even better since I can use them more than once!

    My point is to say thank you and sorry I cannot contribute at this time, but your work is greatly appreciated!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad I can help. I know how rough it is just barely skimming by. If it weren't for good free patterns I probably never would have learned to crochet. Be sure to check out my library on Ravelry, all of those (with a few exceptions for inspiration) are free patterns. My Ravelry page link is at the top right side of the blog. :)

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  4. sorry about the message about the slopping i figured it out what i did wrong now you will have to excuse me im from england lol

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  5. Hello, I so want to make this! What yarn did you use?? If it is still available for purchase, I'd love to get the exact kind of yarn that you used. My email address is: karinmichellejordan@yahoo.com. If you could email me and let me know I'd greatly appreciated it

    ReplyDelete